Removing just one or two tiles without injuring adjacent tiles is possible. The first step is to remove the grout from around the tile/s in question. This can be done with a variety of tools from an old fashioned beer can opener to small hand held grout saws, to electric motorized tools. As much grout as possible must be removed first and then the adjacent tiles edges should be covered with duct tape rolled down into the open grout joint. This should cushion any "flack" from damaging good tile/s. A friend holding a large putty knife against adjacent tiles is another option.

Get a good size cardboard box and remove one entire side and its upper and lower flaps, then remove the other 3 top flaps, but leave the three remaining bottom flaps making a "Tri-Fold" with 3 extended flaps that will flare out around the Tri-Fold" when you stand it erect around the tile/s. This will create a shield for debris as you demo the tile/s. The out folded flaps can be weighted down with any heavy objects keeping the "Tri-Fold" shield in place. Wear eye protection and use at least a 16 oz hammer and 1" "Cold Chisel" to demo the tile. Start by pounding the middle and working your way to the outer edges. Chopping off small pieces takes more time but is more practical. A medium size "Ballpean" hammer can also be used to get things started, and then switching to the hammer and chisel.

The other option is to rent an electric scrapper designed for tile removal. They are hand held devices but may not be available everywhere. Makita and Bosh are two makes.

Tile Mastic should be reserved for wall tiles and are not recommended for floor tile installations by the experts. Although the tiles seem difficult to remove, once removed you should notice that there is probably very little "mastic" on their backs, which made them vulnerable. Need more help, write again. Armen Tavy

Did you take them off while you were still taking a shower? Just a joke Fred. Tiles that are still wet internally may not bond well to adhesives or Thin-Set Mortar or take much longer before they "set". In many large commercial applications, installers will even pre-soak tiles so they can be adjusted for alignment for a longer time. However, this practice is for the experienced.

In your case, they should be towel dried and set "on edge" to air dry in a room with good ventilation or outdoors in daylight. Indoors, overnight,; outdoors several hours. Here is a test: A few drops of water on the back of a tile should completely absorb into the tile in less than 30 seconds and not more than a minute. Armen Tavy

It is not advisable to seal Porcelain Tiles since their dense surface does not readily accept sealers very well and applications of sealers to them may cast an opaque film and/or eventually peal. The grout joints are all that you should be concerned with. Pads on furniture legs is always prudent because sand particles can scratch most anything, even Porcelain; besides it is quieter when chairs are pushed in or out.

The washer and dryer should have rubber cup type pads (booties , I call them) around the adjustable metal legs. If the original pads are missing, go to an appliance repair shop and purchase these "booties". Anything that is "pounded on regularly" without some sort of cushioning to soften the "blow" can eventually cause breakage if tiles were not installed with "perfect bonding techniques" and the best mortar suited for the installation. Armen Tavy

The compound that holds down asbestos tile is not the greatest because it was designed to make the tiles easily removable someday, if that was not the original intent, it did work. You say you have some loose tiles; well they can be lifted and re-glued. If the rest of the floor looks and feels sound, taping on the tiles will tell. If only some sound hollow and the majority sound solid when tapped on, "gravity" of your new installation should hold them all down after repairs to the loose ones. The only other preparation is to remove any floor wax that is usually present on these floors and there are wax removers that will do that easily. Sanding the tiles is not recommended for obvious reasons.

Joining an existing tile floor is all about height and grout joint alignment. Height can be adjusted with reducing devices if necessary. Alignment with existing grout joints is another matter that can be done if you can find the exact tiles again or use tiles of the same exact size. If these options do not work or appeal to you, a border and or feature strip or a diagonal pattern can be designed into the floor layout to make the transition pleasing to the eye. Give me more information and I can give you more "tips". Armen Tavy

You are welcome. To make it easier to explain, make a template of your toilet and place it on the floor where the toilet will go. Outline the area with a pencil and as long as the area inside the pencil line has tile, it is enough. Of course, the closer you can get to the 7" diameter center hole, the less room there is for unwanted matter to collect in an open space. If you create a large open space to make cutting easier, just fill it in with grout. TAVY Thin-Skin is the best product for template making for hard to make cuts. The cut under the toilet can look like an "ice cream cone. Round at the top and to a point at the bottom or front section of the toilet, as long as it stays within the confines of the toilet's footprint. When your toilet is installed, use the same grout you used for the floor to grout around the toilet. Let it stay for 10 minutes or so before washing off all excess beyond the base of the toilet (be neat). White grout or colored grout to match the toilet is optional. Caulks are difficult to remove if you ever have to remove the toilet for repairs or replacement. Armen Tavy

SOORY, I FORGOT TO ANSWER about the double wax rings. Avoid this unless you are extremely careful because the wax can accidentally spread into the drain water passageway partially blocking it. A way to minimize this risk is to get a "Jumbo Ring" or set one ring on the toilets bottom and the other over the flange ring and flatten it slightly with a small putty knife.  Set the toilet slowly over the bolts holding the toilet as level as you can, then twist it slightly as you press it down into position. You will be facing the toilet so just sit down on it just as it bottoms out, twist as necessary. Don't get off of it until you are sure it doesn't twist or move easily while you are sitting on it. Tighten the nuts over the metal washer and plastic knob clips. Tighten the nuts gradually and equally, switching from one to the other until they are "Snug"; do not over tighten. The washer will slide out of position as you tighten and will require manipulation with your fingers to hold it square as you tighten the nut/s. The best tool is an open end 7/16" wrench about 4 to 6" long. Longer wrenches will exert more pressure because of the extra leverage it exerts, so use caution. Cut off the tops of the bolts with a metal saw about a 3/8" above the nut so the plastic dome can snap over the flange built into the clip.  

The best advice is to use a tile pre-seal or "grout release". Grout Releases may have to be "hunted down" at larger tile distributors (look in the Yellow Pages). It is a painted on liquid that protects the tiles long enough to finish grouting. You can also use a permanent top sealer before you grout, taking care not to get it into the spaces between the tiles and inadvertantly coating the sides of the tiles. If you have areas that are already completed and clefts or crevices are filled with grout residue, a stiff scrubbing with a Sulfamic Acid bath can help (available in most tile stores). Never use any acid product full strength. This acid works well at 1 part acid crystals to 10 parts water. Always wet or dampen the surface to be cleaned before washing/scrubbing with the acid mixture, and always rinse everything twice. Armen Tavy

Grout or grout haze? Haze needs appropriate grout haze removers. Most tile stores carry this type chemical manufactured by "Aqua Mix" and "Tile Guard", "DuPont", etc. In cases where there is actual grout and not just haze, the grout can be saturated with the same chemical or 1 part "Sulfamic Acid Crystals" to 10 parts warm water and scraped carefully with a single edge razor blade held in a suitable "blade holder". A larger 4" wallpaper removing razor blade device can be used for expanded areas. "Aldon" has a grout haze a smear remover that may also work for you. Go to www.aldonchemical.com  Armen Tavy

Only in your dreams. You would need to put "Duct Tape" under the entire tile for it to be effective, but the downside is that there would be no effective mechanical bond to the floor because that would be asking too much of "Duct Tape". If "D.T." was a solution for crack suppression, every tile floor would be installed over it and "All our crack problems would disappear.

You can only resolve this problem if you use a "thin" proven product that will not raise your tile higher than the adjacent tiles and still function as a "slip sheet" to protect your tiles. TAVY "Thin-Skin" is the thinnest at .009 inches with a fraction more for the installation glue. Again, the fabric must fill the entire area to be tiled. A 12" x 12" tile needs 12" x 12"s of fabric, or as much fabric as necessary to fill the entire space to accommodate all the tiles that need replacing. No portion of a tile that needs protection can touch any part of the cracked cement slab.

The 007 glue is applied with a 5/32" trowel, fabric is installed over the 007 glue pressing the fabric lightly with a 6" putty knife; modified thin-set mortar is mixed, spread with a 1/4" x 3/8" x 1/4" trowel and the tiles are (thinly) back buttered with mortar just before they are set in place. Grouting is delayed for 24 hours. www.tavytools.com , for sources. Armen Tavy

Thank you for the feedback Bre, and I will check "Aldon" for future reference. Armen Tavy

Porcelain Tiles always require a flexible modified mortar. Mortars that are mixed with their own Liquid Latex Additive, instead of water, are the best. These types of mortars would be best to handle heavy cars, and large groups of friends milling around. A mesh heating system would need a thicker "dry pack" to acommodate the extra bulk. "Dry Pack" is the same "Washed Mason's Sand" and Portland Cement mix used for shower pans, which is screeded, packed and tamped. A skim coating of mortar is applied for a stiffer "crust" and allowed to dry to the "touch". 

The ratio for your application should be 4 parts sand  to 1 part Portland Cement. Every single tile "Must Be Backbuttered" just before they are set. "Beating blocks or rubber mallets must be used to effectively seat the tiles into the mortar. The installer must use the correct trowel to spread the mortar for the tiles selected and observe the proper installation techniques set forth by the Tile Council of North America. A tile must be "lifted" on occasion to inspect "transferrence" of setting mortar to the back of the tile. Ideally it would be no less than 90/95% and 100% at the corners of each and every tile. The services of an experienced installer is prudent. Armen Tavy"

Cement backer boards will not effectively strengthen your floor, as would another layer of plywood secured with sub-flooring glue and 1 1/2" galvanized roofing nails in an 8 inch grid pattern in the field and every 6 inches around the perimeters and along every 1/8" seam between plywood sheets. Since we don't particularly like tiles installed with mortar over wood, we recommend the addition of a tile underlayment membrane."Schluter", "Protecto-Wrap", "TAVY", Easy MAt, are four of many choices you have. Check for deflection in the flooring by having a person of "weight" walk across while you watch for any floor movement. A glass of water on the floor can be watched while you jump up and down within 1 or 2 feet of the glass to see if water splashes out. If it does, follow the instructions above. Armen Tavy

Many times prep work takes longer than the actual tile installation. The best way to judge the charges  devoted to  preparation work is figured separately from the actual tile installation labor rate. Only you can put a dollar value on prep work.  If you have a regular day job, you must decide if you are worth what you get paid per hour there, or set a rate for an 8 hour day and give them 9 hours of work, because working for friends is not always a good idea, and you usually end up giving “more than you get”.  Only you can decide on this number . If you are an efficient tile layer you should also be an efficient worker when doing prep work.

Certain aspects of prep work can be charged by the square foot, as in laying tile underlayments.  $1 per square foot is usually fair. In other cases, as in removing tile, linoleum, wood or other existing floor covering, a fair labor rate per hour for general labor is okay. $10 to $15 per hour is the average in most areas of the country for unskilled labor.  Although prep work requires “ talent”, it can be done by persons who have abilities not specific to setting tile so the labor rate can be significantly lower for that portion of the job.  Prep work, as in rebuilding with carpenter skills, could bump up the labor rate$5 per hour.

When working at an hourly rate, all non-essential conversations stop and work is preformed diligently. No breaks, except for lunch, and Absolutely NO Cell Phone Calls. It is difficult for me to tell you what he should get per square foot for setting tile without knowing where you reside in the country. The labor rate is significantly different from state to state, and city to city. It can vary from a low of $2 per foot in Florida to $5/10 or more, again, depending on your location. These are only estimates and you should probably call a local tile store and ask them what they charge for their services, in addition to the cost of tile.Armen Tavy

I don’t know what you saw on a DIY Channel but I, and most installers that I know, would not “wet set” cement boards directly to a cement slab, besides it would be a terrible waste of money and energy when you have another option. Your idea is a very intriguing concept for a garage floor warming system.  A floor warming system consisting of metal clips and metallic heating wires that could be arranged in any pattern you choose would not be negatively affected by any weight load placed upon the system. Porcelain tiles in formats from 16, 18, and 20” or larger would be suitable. TAVY “Thin-Skin” Tile Underlayment System could be installed over the concrete and then skim coated with Modified Thin-Set Mortar. This skim coating step would guaranty a better bond to a “dry pack” overlay. The metal clips that are used to retain the heating elements would be cemented to the Thin-Skin Underlayment and then the elements strung around the retaining clips in 3 inch parallel configurations to suit your needs.

Since most garages are pitched or slopped for drainage towards the front of the garage, a self leveling cement system could not be utilized over the heating elements. A cement “dry pack”, that I have already mentioned, could be used instead to cover and conceal the wiring elements and clips. It would then be prudent to install a second layer of TAVY “Thin-Skin” over the “dry pack”. This would make tile replacement or repairs simple without damaging any of the heating system’s elements. A break in any part of the wiring system would require complete removal and replacement of the entire system ($$$$$ costly). Total thickness would be in the range of Plus or Minus one inches, plus the thickness of the selected tiles. If you can allow for this total height, this could work and your garage would be “toasty” to boot. Weight of the car, heat and water drainage/management would be simple. I would not mind being a key player in designing a system like this and my advice would be for free. It also would help me to know what city, state or country you live in, when answering questions like this. Armen Tavy

I am a bit confused about "32" metal joists" in a basement. A basement in residential construction usually means a room that has a cement slab floor at or below ground level. Or do you mean a suspended floor made of "steel" I Beam Joists, and if they are, how far are they spaced apart and how thick are they? The criteria is to have two layers of wood flooring 1 1/8" minimum thick that does not deflect more than 1 inch in a 30 foot span with a 300 pd load at its centerpoint of 15 lineal feet or not more than 1/4" at the 7' centerpoint of 15 lineal feet. Get back to me with better information so I can help you. Armen Tavy

This was one big mistake and a call to "Custom" is a must. Removing Red Guard painted over 210 sq ft of slate is not going to be easy. I can't even honestly predict what they are going to say. We shall see. Armen Tavy

You won't have much luck filling this shallow gap with "concrete". It would be simpler to use a modified thin-set mortar to first fill the gap, let it dry, and then tile over the patch area with any suitable ceramic tile strips cut to fill/fit the area. Let the tile cure for at least 72 hours before pushing the "Frig" over the repair. Armen Tavy

Since that date you and two other individuals who asked me the same question are all waiting for the results of my test. I must apologize to all that my September schedule has been more demanding then in most months. I did purchase a brand new lower section of a fiberglass shower stall and did actually lay one half of the "pan" with TAVY "Thin-Skin" Tile Underalyment using my "007" adhesive and used a brand new adhesive product, submitted for me to review by a chemical adhesive manufacturer, on the other half of the test area. Before I left on my business trips I did view and test adhesion to the fiberglass and am pleased to inform that both glues bonded very well.

I am presently half way through a 9 day business trip, 2700 miles away from my home base in Florida, that was preceeded by a 5 day "Video Shoot" in "O'Tools" Restaurant in Richmond Virginia where we were documenting the installation of ceramic tile over my "Tile Underlayment" in two new customer restrooms.

I will be returning to Florida by Thursday evening and will make it a point to install ceramic tile that I have already purchased on both test halves over the weekend. It will take at least 72 hours after tiling and grouting before I can run several days of on and off "flood testing". I will inform all of the results by October 4th.

Thank you all for being so patient, Armen Tavy  

There is the old school way of doing things and the new way, which is also called a shortcut. You have received a quote from both, which can you afford? The more expensive one is complete and thorough; the short cut can be just as efficient if all the criterions are met. A sound floor, no loose linoleum or vinyl tiles, can be augmented with fasteners and tiled over directly using "High End" Liquid Latex Modified Mortars, or tile-able ceramic tile underlayment membranes can be added with equal success as long as the floor deflection maximums are not exceeded. There are a number of varieties to choose from with a variety of costs. I have covered these issues extensively and browsing our archives in the "search box" can give you much additional information.

Ask your tile estimators to explain your choices and why he prefers his method, since both methods work. Total completion height can also fit into the equation. Are both installers professionals, hold licenses, and insurance? Are they both "bonded", and can they give you three referrals? The answers can help you identify their skill levels. If you are still nervous and can't make a decision either way, a call to the local Better Business Bureau or checking reviews on "Google" may turn up something. A few phone calls to local tile retailers are another option. Preparation time exceeds tile installation time and this drives up the cost dramatically. If you still need more help, write again. Armen Tavy

There is a lot going on here. The first important issue is" "We never recommend tiling over a "Wood Substrate of any kind outdoors", or where the installation is subjected to the elements, which can vary depending on where you live. The second thing is the use the non-use of expansion or "soft joints", especially on exterior installations that are 45 feet in length.

Remedies are just going to be temporary "band-aid" treatments at this point. and you are going have the chore of periodic  maintenance hence on. The salts can be neutralized with a bath of "TSP", available at your local paint or hardware store, followed by a "power washing". Leveling the floor is impractical at this late date, and you are just going to have to live with it. Armen Tavy

Have you looked to see if one or more of the diagonal tiles are full size under the frig. if there is at least one, an extended tip can be cut off the tile and relocated in the area of concern. If so. write me for help on removing a portion of that extended tile to fill the spot. Do you have a free standing stove or a pantry/closet? If so, you could "steal" a tile from there. Armen Tavy

Our Tile Industry has banned "Lauan" as a suitable substrate under ceramic tile, as well as linoleum, for many years now because it eventually repels mortar and also because it can expand dramatically if it is "flooded". Nothing sticks to "Lauan" except TAVY "Thin-Skin" Tile Underlayment which you can use to retile a new ceramic tile floor without tearing out all the "Lauan" that is stapled down. Your loss is typical when tiling over this substrate and you have my sympathy; but again, I have the remedy as well. Off course you should inspect your "Lauan" to make sure it is flat and secure. I am Not Crazy about staples and would recommend using 1 1/2" galvanized roofing nails in an 8" grid pattern everywhere and every 6" around objects and the perimeters of the entire installation area before proceeding with a new installation, to properly secure your underlayment down. Staples are not corrosive resistant and can rust out in time.

As long as your "Lauan" does not get flooded, it should be okay. Since you have many loose tiles, it is a good indication that those and the rest of your tiles should not be too difficult to remove. The installation mortar should come off with the tiles and floor preparation and clean up should be fairly easy.  www.tavytools.com for sources Armen Tavy

I am having trouble understanding some of your terminology. Please reply with the manufacturer's brand names for the tile and the grout. Be very specific about the grout. If your black tiles are "Crossville Ceramics", they are indeed very hard to scratch. The person who grouted your floor should also check his grout applicator (float) for foreign objects that may have imbedded themselves into the float's rubber body. The problem you are describing is typically caused by sanded grout. There are "Forensic" Specialists around the country who could help you, but you have not told me where you live. What is your your City and State/Country? If you would prefer to keep your name, e-mail and phone number private to me only, send it to: spacerman@tavytools.com   Armen Tavy, personal cell # 860-559-8469

I can be criticized, as a moderator, for mentioning my own Tile Underlayment product so many times as a solution, but when these types of questions repeatedly come up and I have the perfect product, which I designed to specifically address these kinds of issues, I am compelled to mention it. You will find it, TAVY “Thin-Skin” in the right margin of this page. It is a 2-part system, a glue and a fabric. Each part of the unit will cover 100 square feet. Probably more than you need for your project, but we hope you will be tempted to do more projects after you see how easy it is. Go to www/tavytools.com and click on distributors.

When there is any doubt about the bonding integrity of a surface to set tile over, this product is the simple remedy. Uneven surfaces can be filled easily with a patching compound if they are large or spanned with the fabric if they are not. Additional mortar can be used to fill small to medium size irregularities before or after the Thin-Skin is installed or before as well as after. If you need more help, I am always here. Armen Tavy

My compliments to your father in-law for his dedication to "epoxy" tile installation systems. However, cement mortars have been around longer and are much more user friendly. Epoxy mortars miss-used can come back to haunt you. They are more costly and their use is worthless if all conditions are not ideal by "one who will try". Tiling directly over OSB with Cement Mortars is discouraged by most manufacturers; your only other option is to use products that will not raise your floors more than a fraction of an inch, and these products are limited. "ProtectoWrap" and Tavy "Thin-Skin" are the thinnest. Paint on liquid plastic membranes will add a bit more height.

I personally guarantee my "Thin-Skin" product used in conjunction with Quality Name Brand Modified Mortars as a setting bed. If you want to go the extra mile, use Liquid Latex Modified Mortars instead. Pre-sealing any tile requires the installer to avoid protective sealers from overlapping onto the tiles outer vertical edges which would hinder grout adhesion. Epoxy grout in the hands of a novice, for a total job square footage like yours, is also chancy. Re-think your choices or find an individual with proper experience. Don't become a "statistic". Armen Tavy

An installation like this can survive as long as certain precautions are taken. Two seperate layers of sub-flooring (1 1/8" minimum total thickness); a bondable sub-strate to tile to; a "Liquid Latex Modifed Thin-Set Mortar as the setting bed; room for expansion and contraction around the perimeter as well as solid objects; correct industry approved techniques when installing the tile. See, that was easy. Armen Tavy 

Floor heating systems are sold in specific lengths to suit customer needs. Some systems can be coupled for larger size installations. There are "mat systems" and there are metal clips and hard wire systems that are configured by the installer. You should submit a drawing to someone who understands these systems to arrive at a lineal length that will service your needs. Which are best? It is up to you because both warm the floors equally well. The mat systems can be "nipped" to make 90 or 180 + degree angle turns. The metal clip and hard wire system are manually woven about 3" apart but parallel to each other until you make a turn/s. The mat systems cannot be fastened with nails or staples over cement slabs, nor can the clip and wire systems. These systems need adhesives to hold them in place until mortar and tile are installed over them. With patience and the right size trowel you can tile directly over either system or you can pour a self-leveling Portland Cement system thicker then the mats or clips and then set your tiles over a flat and level surface. Self-leveling systems do raise the floor height 3/8" to 1/2 + additional inches. Although self-levelers are not user friendly, the end result makes tile setting easier for a novice.

The downside to floor heating systems is what happens if you ever have to replace a tile or tiles. I advise installers to consider tile underlayment membranes over heated floors so any tile changes will not compromise or destroy the heating system below them. Schluter, Mapei, Laticrete, Custom, TAVY, ProtectoWrap, etc. make underlayment materials you can install to make tile repairs or floor replacement easier and non-invasive. Which would be the thinnest, adding minimal additional height? TAVY "Thin-Skin" and "ProtectoWrap". The later two can be used under tiles and over wood or vinyl flooring, following their own installation instructions. If you know next to nothing about electricity, it is wise to have an electrician make the final lead and thermostat hook up. Please do your research for proper tiling techniques, because it is an unnecessary waste to tile in "haste". Armen Tavy

We do not sell tile on this forum. e-mail Brian at ceramictec@comcast.net and tell him I sent you. Brian is very knowledgable about ceramic tile sources and should be able to help you.

10 inch tiles, which actually measured 9 1/2 to 9 3/4 inches, increased in popularity over the most popular 8" size slowly at first, but as the pace quickend, 12" tiles were introduced and they made 10" and then 8" tiles obsolete in a few short years. 

The short lived 10" tiles yielded in popularity to 12" tiles, the cornerstone of the market world wide for over 25 years, and now 12" tiles are being threatened by 16",18"and 20" tiles; the latter is already my personal favorite. Will a 20" tile work in a small bathroom measuring + - 35 square feet? I can personally say, yes!

You and others should make it a point to visit either or both Flooring Trade Shows, "Surfaces" in Vegas and "Coverings" in Orlando, to see the most amazing variety of beautiful tiles that are available from all over the world, and enjoy a vacation to boot. Google them for dates.

It always helps when guests with questions tell us where they live. Armen Tavy

That friend of your's brother may have used "Foux" slate tile. Buy some Vermont gauged slate and the problem would not be an issue. "Faux" products simulate the real thing but cannot, by the definition, be exactly the same as the real thing. Warping is an issue from other users of these "Faux" products.

The "dumbest" place to try and save money is in the "mortar", which is the most important part of the installation except the product itself. Modified mortars are a must for flexibility and bonding strength; the higher the cost the better the mortar. You do get what you pay for when it come to mortar, assuming you are dealing with an honest retailer. in addition, mortars don't really like to bond to sealers, so one is always gambling with that decision. Armen Tavy

That is a new one on me. The only pre-sealing, if any, would be done on the face of the slate, to protect the "clefts" in the stone from loading up with grout, during the grouting and washing process. The person who applies the pre-seal must be dilligent and not get any sealer on the outside edges of the slate. Once the slate installation is completed, a second coating of sealer would seal the grout as well; however, be aware that if this sealer is a "Top Sealer" it will darken the grout to the look it was during its "wet" application. A grout release type of sealer will wash off during the grouting application leaving the slate in its natural state, and a "Penetrating" Sealer will never let you get the beautiful natural colors of slate to the surface of the stone, as you could if you use a slate or stone enhancing sealer before or after the tile installation. Armen Tavy